Monday, March 15, 2010
Little Update: guests, Frisbee, and weather
Anyway, the main reason I wanted to post something was that last week I played in France's inter-regional university ultimate (Frisbee) tournament. If I have more time later this week maybe I'll include some of the more interesting details, but I wanted to let you know that there are pictures from the tournament on facebook. I was tagged in several of them, and you can click on the link to the photo album to see more pictures. It was a great time, and Montpellier, in only its second appearance in the tournament, took 7th out of 14 teams. Not bad at all!
After a freak snow storm over a week ago, spring is coming to Montpellier full force; the past three days have been sunny, slightly breezy, and warm. Life is good.
If you think of it, pray for Shawna, Bill, and Katie as they continue to travel. They're going to Italy next, and then Malta, and then who knows.
Greetings from France!
Friday, March 5, 2010
Barcelona (1 week after the fact)
Parham's expression adequately captures how we felt after finally finding the place.
I went for a walk that afternoon and came across the St. Pau Hospital just a few blocks north of the hostel. I guess it's a hospital and research facility, and perhaps a school as well, because it's an entire campus of buildings, beautiful, ornate buildings.
That night we met at Catalunya, a metro stop and public square at the top of La Rambla, a famous street and shopping area. From left to right on the bench are Parham, Alexandra, and Aneta. Alexandra and Aneta are good friends from Poland studying in Montpellier for the se
mester. They are quite the pair. Over the course of our trip, Parham and I managed to pick up a number of Polish phrases, none of which I know how to spell. However it's spelled, though, travelling in Barcelona with Alexandra and Aneta was ziabista -- awesome.
The next day we went to La Sagrada Familia, one of the most impressive cathedrals I've ever seen. It's designed by Gaudi, an architect responsible for many of the fascinating designs in the city. Unfortunately the cathedral is still under construction. It is nonetheless awe-inspiring. In the picture on the right are Parham, the Polish girls, Sarah in purple, and behind her Patrick, a German guy Sarah met in her hostel. He ended up spending the rest of the day with us.
The next day we went to one of the more novel museums I've ever been to -- the Museum of Chocolate. The ticket was a chocolate bar, and the displays were sculptures made entirely of chocolate. It's hard to say if it was more impressive or more appetizing!
Because Sarah had to leave later that afternoon, we hauled over to the beach and then to a tapas bar. Tapas is sort of like an appetizer or a snack, and from what I understand, a lot of people go to a bar after work to get a beer and tapas. One of the better known tapas plates is patatas bravas, which is potatoes with mayonnaise and a spicy sauce. It is really quite good, as is all the tapas we tried.
The next day, Friday, was when I went to the castle shown at the beginning of this post. That morning and early afternoon we all split up and did different things. The girls went shopping, Parham went to the Museum of Catalonian History, and I went to explore that area of the city to the west of La Rambla. The National Museum of Catalonian Art is incredible even on the outside. I only had time to go into one of the temporary exhibits, but I was glad just to see the building and estate.
Between the art museum and the castle, I saw some big tower and the Olympic Stadium which was built for the '92 Summer Games. I was surprised to see how small the stadium was, and in what poor condition as well.
After that we went to the biggest club I've ever been to. It was crazy. There were five separate rooms with five separate DJ's or live bands, and each room had a bare minumum of 300 people. They're pulling in some dough at 15 euros a head. We stayed there until it closed at 6 in the morning, then waited for the metro to start at 7, took a nap at our hostel, packed up, and checked out by 10. Our grand plan was to spend the day at the beach and sleep under a blanket of sunlight. You may recall, however, my previous mention of one single day of bad weather during our trip. Yes, it was Saturday, our day to sleep at the beach. We were tired enough that we slept in the cold, a
nyway; luckily it didn't rain very much. I was too tired and we were all too haggard to make photographs worthwhile, but I did take a few. Here's the cloudy sky -- nonetheless pretty -- and our sleeping arrangements.
We kind of wondered around the city the rest of the day after we became too cold to stay at the beach. Every time we stopped somewhere, at least one of us fell asleep. Somehow we survived until our bus ride back, which left at 1:35 am Saturday night/Sunday morning. That seemed like a good time to come back when we first booked it. It turned out to be really stupid. Of course we made it back, though -- at about 8 in the morning on Sunday. Needless to say, we were pretty tired.
It's amazing that even with a good amount of pictures and text, I still have to leave out so many details about our trip. I imagine that I'll eventually have the opportunity to sit down with some of you readers and show you my pictures in person. I look forward to that day. Until then, I'll try to keep taking pictures and posting on this blog. Love,
Your man (once again) in France
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
In Barcelona
You might be wondering who I´m referring to with this first person plural pronoun business. My American friend, Parham, and I are staying in this hostel; my two Polish friends, Aneta and Alexandra, will be staying in this hostel starting tomorrow night; and my friend Sarah is staying in another hostel in town. We´re going to hit the sight-seeing scene hard tomorrow, so I better go get some sleep -- perhaps after one more stroll around the neighborhood.
-your man in Spain
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Alive and Well and Active
Well, it's not exactly true that I've received hundreds of emails asking for more blog posts. Come to think of it, I haven't received one such email. Still, I'd like to think that there are at least a few frequent readers out there, and to those members of my audience, I apologize for the two weeks that have gone by since my last post. One of the conundrums not only of blog-writing but of writing in general is that it's an act done in solitude which concerns the world at large. The man who stays in his room writing all day won't have much to say, and the man who constantly experiences the vastness of life will never settle down and write. For someone in a foreign country for five short months that are already flying by, I am face to face with this conundrum perhaps for the first time. My blog posts have become less frequent, and so have my journal entries. I've integrated to one degree or another into a new culture, a new society, with new people to meet and new places to visit and new sights to see. If some time passes between my blog posts, then, don't worry. You can pretty safely bet that it's because I'm experiencing life in Europe, life in Montpellier -- and how much richer my blog posts will be because of that!
So what have I been experiencing? Here's my Top 5 experiences of the past several weeks, not really in any particular order:
5. Sports. I've been playing basketball a couple times a week with some people that live in Vert Bois, my dorm community. The founding fathers of these pick-up games were Parham, an American who's become one of my better friends here, and Bertrand and Sylvain, two guys from Cameroon. Parham played for a year at his college, and he's an absolute powerhouse, often driving to the hoop against three defenders. Bertrand is also good and plays quite physically. It seems like every time we play something bad happens to Bertrand. The first time, his watch broke; the second time, his shoes started coming apart. There was one day he got elbowed three times in the face, got a finger in his eye, got hit in the stomach, and to top it off, after we were done playing an errant ball landed square on his head. We all felt bad for him yet couldn't help but laugh at his unlikely misfortune.
In addition to basketball, I've also been playing Frisbee. As strange as it may sound, there's actually an Ultimate class here at the university. Apparently students have something called an "Option," kind of like an elective. A French student told me that for l'Option, they can choose between a foreign language class and a sports class. That's quite the option. Anyway, I go to the class to play, but I'm not taking it for credit. Ultimate is worlds more popular in the US than it is in France. When I tell people I play Ultimate, they usually have no idea what I'm saying, and it's not because of my accent. However, there are some decent players here, and in fact, we are going to play in France's national university tournament in Lyon in a few weeks. The university is paying for our lodging and food for two days; all we have to pay for is gas money. So I guess I'm a sponsored Ultimate player in France. Not bad.
4. People of the world. I believe I've already mentioned on my blog that Montpellier is a diverse city. While I realized this the first week I moved here, I still marvel at how many different responses I get when I ask people where they're from. The other night we had a potluck sort of dinner in my dorm, a very frequent event. We probably packed over t
Here we have Parham making a goofy face (as he often does). I won't name everyone in the background, but there is another American, some British folks, my friend Katarina from Slovakia, a French girl, some Italians, an Iranian, and maybe my friend Anna from Mexico hiding behind Parham.
As I'm typing this, I hope it doesn't seem that I'm trying to flaunt this diversity, like the ethnic equivalent of name-dropping. It's
3. Conversation. I actually feel like a decent conversationalist in French now. The typical conversation with a new acquaintance covers name, country or city of origin, if he or she is a student, year in school, mutual friends, what he or she is doing later that night, and an exchange of phone numbers. Other than exchanging phone numbers -- which is really quite common here for some reason, even with people you might not intend to call -- these are generally the same components of basic English conversation in the US. I encounter and re-encounter these same topics almost daily, yet I continue to delight in them for the mere fact that they're in French. I'm actually speaking to people in French! Sometimes I realize mid-conversation how cool that is, that years of mostly theoretical learning has become entirely practical. And I do have more significant conversations than mere chit-chat. Last weekend, for instance, I went to a house party with my friend Anthony, and I talked to the same two girls until four in the morning. By that point I was about ready to die of exhaustion, but it was certainly worth the effort and lack of sleep.
2. Funky Musak. A few nights ago we went to l'Antirouille, a bar/music venue mostly known for reggae. The first night we got there really late and missed the main act, but we stuck around and danced to the DJ's music. The n
Last night we went to a bar called La Pleine Lune (Full Moon) where there is a gypsy jazz night every Sunday. Gypsy jazz sounds to me like a mix between swing and Spanish or latin music. The instrumentation was bass, electric guitar (with a rather acoustic sound, though), an acoustic guitar, and a violin. Apparently some of the musicians actually are gypsies, and you can see them playing in the downtown center square sometimes. It's been fun discovering the musical side of Montpellier. I found out last night that The Cranberries are coming to town, and I know that there is an upcoming performance of Carl Orff's Carmina Burana at the opera house.
1. God. If it's not obvious, I feel much more comfortable and settled now than I did the first few weeks in France. As I alluded to earlier in this post, the turbulence of the first leg of my trip prompted a rather prolific amount of writing on my part. What's more, it prompted me to lean on God more than perhaps ever in my life. Every moment of those first weeks felt like a lesson in humility and trust, as if I was walking in utter darkness and yet could be totally sure of my steps because I knew who was with me. I have the impression now that that darkness has lifted. I do wonder, though, if it is anything more than an impression, an illusion, this restored self-confidence. I think we are wholly dependent on the Lord every single second of our lives, even if we feel in control most of the time. I believed that -- at least theoretically -- before I came to Montpellier, and I believe it more strongly now.
Yet the illusion of control is often quite convincing. Now that I know the city better, now that my French is improving, now that I know where to go to church, where to get my groceries, how to access the school intranet, now that I have contacts in my cell phone and euros in my French bank account; it seems as if I can loosen my grip on the Lord's cloak, that I can stop clinging. On the one hand I am thankful for some stability; on the other hand I am wary of trusting myself. And even as my life here has settled a bit, the Lord has continued to bless me on a daily basis. Basketball with Bertrand, friends from all over the world, legitimate French conversations, great live music -- these highlights didn't start with me or my will. Even if I don't feel the need for God as strongly as I did several weeks ago, I am no less sure of His presence and His goodness.
In just over five hours I'll be leaving to catch a bus to Barcelona. I've never been to Spain, and I hardly speak a word of Spanish; maybe I will feel once again how small and desperately dependent I am. Whatever happens there, though, count on one thing -- our Constant -- and expect some more stories on this blog once I get back. My love to all of you.
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Ski Trip (no joke)
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Enfin, un étudiant étranger
I think part of the let-down stems from the general indifference of French students and even professors. Most (or perhaps all?) French students go to university with significant financial support from the government. While this may help university enrollment numbers, it also means that a lot of French students don't care all that much about their studies. (I suppose the same phenomenon of indifference happens in the US, but it seems to occur even when the students' or the students' families are paying for college from their own pockets. I've never been able to understand how someone could pay 15, 20, or 30 grand a year just to slack off, party, and drop out.) People show up late pretty regularly, and only the students near the front of the class listen attentively to the professor; the ones in the back feel free to talk to one another, occasionally even picking up a cell phone call as if class were taking place at a bus stop. The weirdest thing is that most professors don't do anything about it. They simply keep on talking, apparently unperturbed by the many conversations going on among the audience members. Of course I take the students' talking as a sign of disrespect, but based on the professors' reactions, it's completely normal.
All that to say, I have not entered into the most serious or competitive of academic environments. And that's fine with me. I've decided to take only integrated courses, that is, courses that French students take. There were some other options: a set of classes taught in French but designed for exchange students; some basic French grammar classes also created with non-native speakers in mind; and, as some exchange students have opted to do, I could have enrolled in an English class here. Always in pursuit of cultural and language immersion, though, I knew the best experience would be in the integrated courses. Since these will be fundamentally challenging because of language difficulties, I'm perfectly okay with a somewhat less rigorous university setting.
Due to an odd registration system that allows students to try out courses for the first two weeks, I actually don't know for sure which classes I'll be taking this semester. A few that I'm pretty sure of are a comparative literature class focusing (separately) on the fairy tales of Charles Perrault and the story of the return of the prodigal son; a poetry class about contemporary French poets, namely Philippe Jacottet; a grammar and phonetics class; and a philosophy class on Spinoza's Ethics (l'Ethique). The last slot could be Geography of France, History of Music: The Modern Period, or maybe something else entirely.
One convenient feature of French classes is that there is a small amount of reading and an even smaller amount of homework. Besides my grammar class, I will probably only have one or perhaps two assignments for the whole semester, in addition to a test. On the one hand, this will allow me to take the time to understand what I'm reading. On the other hand, it will require a good deal of discipline on my part to continue studying in the face of so little accountability. I think it could be quite easy to let my classes go by the wayside in exchange for a leisurely semester in Montpellier, or in exchange for more communication with friends back home, or in exchange for all sorts of things. I recently wrote in my journal (in which I've been writing almost every day -- my thanks to Hanna Griffing for making it for me. Of course, that journal is one reason I don't write more on this blog; it harbors the majority of my reflective and creative impulses.) about what sort of experience I want in the next four months: "Do I want the European experience, traveling as much as possible, seeking out adventure? Do I want the French academic experience, excelling in my classes? The international student experience, bonding with other foreigners and making all sorts of transnational ties? The Montpellier experience, becoming an expert of the city and a friend of French folk? Sometimes I feel torn."
If my life -- or just life in general -- were as simple as one of Perrault's fairy tales, I would either make a bad decision or a good one as to what kind of experience I wanted, and after all was said and done there would be a neat little moral in verse. I'll be sure to post that moral once I figure it out.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Boring Stuff
First of all, you should know where Montpellier is. It's almost directly south of Paris, all the way to the Mediterranean Sea. It's located in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. I believe Montpellier is the 8th-largest city in France, with somewhere between 500,000 and 600,000 people in the metropolitan area. It doesn't feel like a big, bustling city, but it does sprawl a good deal. There are two tram lines and many bus routes, and I bought a pass to use either mode of transportation as much as I want. The city is home to the three branches of Montpellier University -- the law and business school, the school of science, and the school of arts, letters, and humanities -- which have a total of about 50,000 students. Because of this high number of students, demographically speaking it's a very young city. Taking the tram at night, people 40 and over are typically a minority.Here's my dorm, the back side of it, anyway. There are several dorm communities ("Cites Universitaires" or "Cites U" here) which all contain many buildings. I live in Vert Bois (that's my Cite U, pronounced kind of like "vair bwa," which means "Greenwood"), and the building pictures above is one of seven in Vert Bois.
This is my room. It really is about as narrow as it looks in the picture. It's simple, but sufficient. The door on the right goes to the bathroom (also small, simple, and sufficient), and behind the main door is a closet. In front of the chair with the jackets on it is my desk, where I'm typing this post and where I do much typing, reading, and even eating.
To the right is la laverie, or the laundry room/shack. I'm including this picture mainly because I think it's a funny little building, just how dumpy it looks. I haven't even used it yet. In order to save money and to up my resourcefulness, I recently started washing my clothes by hand in the shower. The first batch is still drying; I'll have to give another update as to how it turns out.
What you're looking at here is indeed a ping pong table, and it is indeed outside. This indicates two things. One, the weather must be pretty nice in Montpellier all year round. Two, these people must take ping pong pretty seriously. This second conclusion was further validated when I saw a couple playing outside my dorm last week. They were table tennis maniacs! I think I have some training in order...
And finally, pictured to the right is, perhaps surprisingly, a soccer field. It's called a terrain stabilise (stabilized field), and it's basically made of sand. I don't particularly enjoy playing on it, largely because I fell on it and scraped my leg playing rugby, and both times I've played soccer I've fallen again and reopened the wound. I've yet to see a grass soccer field, though, so I hope one of these weeks I can manage not to fall on my knees.